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My aunt told me to never use a 30 volume developer on a client with fine hair
She's a stylist with 25 years in the business and said it would cause major breakage, but I thought it was fine for a standard highlight. Tried it on a client in Austin last month and her ends snapped off like crazy during the rinse. Now I'm debating if that rule is gospel or if you can make it work with super careful application. Has anyone else had a disaster or a success with higher volume on delicate hair?
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piper1751mo ago
Learned that lesson the hard way too, on a client with baby fine hair. I switched to using 20 volume for the whole thing, but I'll put a little 30 volume only on the roots if they need a big lift, and I keep it so far away from the mids and ends. Even then, I watch the clock like a hawk and never let it process the full time.
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masona622mo ago
My salon in Dallas uses 30 volume on fine hair all the time, but we mix in a bond builder and keep it off the ends completely.
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Wow, that's a risky move. 30 volume on fine hair is just asking for trouble, bond builder or not. The heat from that high developer can fry the hair shaft before the bond builder even has a chance to work. I've seen so many clients with fine hair come in with broken, gummy ends from this exact method, @masona62. It might seem okay at first, but over time that damage builds up. A gentler 20 volume with a good bond builder mixed in gives way better, safer results for fragile hair.
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