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I used PVA glue on a leather spine and it didn't ruin the book
I was rebinding a 1900s poetry collection and ran out of my usual paste. In a rush, I used a thin layer of Lineco Neutral pH PVA on the leather spine piece. Everyone says PVA makes leather brittle, but after letting it cure for two full days, the spine is still flexible and the hold is strong. I learned that maybe the 'never use PVA on leather' rule isn't absolute if you're careful with the amount and cure time. Has anyone else had a good result using something they were told to avoid?
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verab282mo ago
Interesting, I've heard that rule too but never had the guts to test it. My old bookbinding teacher would have had a heart attack lol. Sometimes the old school advice is more about avoiding total disasters than a little careful experimenting. Glad it worked out for you, maybe the specific glue and that thin layer made the difference.
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troyjackson27d ago
Oh man I gotta push back a LITTLE on that. The old school advice is actually about physics not just babying beginners. The thing is glue Shrinks as it dries and if you put a heavy layer on a book spine the contraction can warp the paper or even snap the binding over time. @matthewperry is right that a thin layer helps but even then the glue type matters ALOT. PVA is flexible enough for thin coats but animal glue is way more brittle and you really dont want that on a moving hinge. Your teacher probably saw one too many students ruin a book with a fat glue line and just made it a blanket rule. Its smart to be careful but the real secret is matching the glue to the job not just avoiding it.
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matthewperry2mo agoMost Upvoted
Exactly, the thin layer is key because it dries faster and shrinks less. I've used PVA glue on book spines with no issues as long as you don't glob it on. Those old rules are mostly for beginners who might overdo it.
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